Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Facendo!

Translation: Catching up!

Holy cannoli, can it really be December?? I am so behind in blogging, it is embarrassing! But I do have a lot to catch up on because we have been BUSY!!

Where to begin...
Back at the end of October, our dear friends the Hoblet's (who we met in Jacksonville) came to visit us. They currently live in France and we were SO excited to have them here!! It was lovely to catch up with a good friend all while watching our kids have a blast together. Lincoln and Zack played cars for what seemed to be 3 straight days before they started having typical 2-year old meltdowns over sharing. Riann and Lily picked up from where they left off. Lily joined Riann at preschool for their Halloween party, practiced with Riann's soccer team, and attended Riann's ballet class. They had such a wonderful time at school that the rest of the time they were often found playing Miss Donna and Miss Echo (Riann's teachers names). Sarah and I also had fun doing a few fun things sans kiddies like going down to the town of Vietri (along the Amalfi Coast) for some ceramics shopping and a quiet lunch, and going to a typical Italian dinner in Monte di Procida, a really cute, nice part of Napoli. We also visited Caserta Palace and the amphitheater in Pozzuoli. But I think the highlight of their visit was Halloween, especially because the French don't celebrate it and well, here in "Little America" we do!




Unfortunately, Lincoln ended up sick with an ear infection and in bed for the night before trick or treating even began (but he dressed up earlier in the week for his preschool class's Halloween party). Lily, Zack and Riann had a ton of fun being out in their costumes among the hundreds of other kids on base. We were sad to see them head back to France, but we did make some plans to meet up in Germany in February.

Lincoln and I ended up being sick on and off for several days after all our fun with the Hoblet's, so on November 7th, Jamie and Riann went on an adventure with some friends to harvest olives. Riann and Jamie picked olives from a tree, learned all about the olive oil making process and headed home after a day of fun in Benevento with a huge jug of freshly produced olive oil. One more reason to love Italy!!





Thusday November 11th, Jamie's parents arrived in Italy. We met "Gigi & G-Daddy" at the Rome airport and continued driving on to Florence where we spent 4 wonderful days exploring. We spent our first afternoon just walking from our rented apartment over the Ponte Vecchio and eventually to a restaurant to eat dinner. We tried to have an easy evening before we had two very busy days sightseeing.
Friday morning we woke up to rain, we started walking in the direction of the Uffizi Gallery but didn't expect to get in since we did not have reservations, but with no waiting line we walked right in and spent the next two hours among the works of di Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo and many others. It proved to be a little challenging with Lincoln, but overall the kids did great! We ate lunch at a tiny sandwich shop, I Fratellini, that has been opened since 1875 - 29 different sandwiches on the menu to choose from, so delicious and easy and inexpensive!
Over to Santa Maria del Fiore (duomo), we climbed the duomo's dome, all 463 steps up to the very top. Riann did awesome, walking up all 463, Lincoln slept through most of it while I carried him in the the baby carrier... all 463 steps with an extra 32 lbs strapped to me: awesome workout!! The views from the two landings (for lack of a better word) up in the dome were amazing on the inside of the duomo, being able to see the paintings in the dome in great detail was pretty fascinating, seeing everything from angels, to skeletons, to the devil... But the view from the top of the dome outside - amazing!!! Even on a cloudy day you could see all of Florence, though it was a bit terrifying being up so high. Jamie looks down for me, I just like to enjoy the view looking out. Back down 463 steps, and time for a reward... gelato, of course!!




That evening, we had a walking tour for the Accademia to see the David. Jamie was concerned that we got scammed with the price and not really knowing what to expect, but the cost was totally worth it and we were certainly not scammed!! The highlight of the tour was learning that the original David was supposed to be in a certain spot on the roof of the duomo when it was built, as we walked to the Accademia, a replica of David was in the spot where the original was supposed to be! The tour guide, a former sculptor himself, said the replica had never been there before, probably never would be again and would be down by morning. Even the tour guide was in awe!
We arrived at the Accademia, learned about the other statues by Michelangelo in the museum (and that some may not have been done by Michaelangelo afterall). A friend told me we HAD to see the David... I am SO glad we did and had the walking tour guide!! The David was amazing to see in real life, such incredible detail, and so much history and knowledge of how David came to be in the Accademia. Lincoln slept through the entire walking tour, and Riann did amazing once again, so we treated them, well, really ourselves, to another scoop of gelato. Thanks to my wonderful husband who I have nicknamed Human Mapquest, or JamieJamie (as in TomTom), we found our way around Florence to a restaurant a friend of mine recommended, I Ghibellini (thanks, Blair!!) which was fantastic!
We did a little shopping on Friday, which included a few "Made in Italy" purchases... my no-longer-have-boot-envy Italian black leather boots, Jamie bought shoes and a jacket, and Jane (my mother in law) bought a leather jacket.
Saturday, it was noticeably busier in the streets of Florence. Jamie noticed the night before his shoes were mismatched so we went back to the leather shop... Problema turned into Non problema: Francesco righted Jamie's shoes then had us follow him to a local bar (cafe in America) and treated us to cappuchino, cioccolata calda (hot chocolate) and pastries for our "inconvenience". That's Jamie with Franceso...


We walked over to the Duomo where they had rolled out sod over the entire piazza for what looked like a royal parade of some sort.

We also saw a man that seemed to be an Italian celebrity, so I made like the paparazzi and took a few photos. Can anyone tell me who this is??


We went to Piazza della Repubblica where Lincoln napped in the stroller once again while Riann rode on the carousel a few times, then we walked through the market where a ton of leather goods are sold.


We did a little more shopping which included Gigi purchasing a nice, unique, hand made in Florence handbag, and I bought a few little items for Christmas.
We headed back to the other side of the Ponte Vecchio, back to our apartment and then out to dinner to a restaurant called Borgo Antico, where the food, once again was delicious!


Sunday morning, we had to leave Firenze. We made our way trying to find Piazzale Michelangelo but ended up at San Miniato church which was up further on the same hill across from Florence. We had some stunning views, so we took some photos and then piled back into our rental minivan.





On the way to the autostrada, we drove past the bronze David (another replica) and Piazzale Michelangelo... Next time, next time. We had a wonderful time in Florence, there is still so much to see that we missed, I expect we will be back a few more times, at least!

With the G's in town, Jamie & I took advantage and booked a trip, just the two of us, to get away to Venice for a long weekend. It was just what we needed!! We had 2 full days and 2 full nights to explore as much of Venezia as we possibly could. It also meant that we had many uninterrupted, unrushed meals as we could fit in too, what a luxury!
The forecast in Venice was not a pretty one, but the weather ended up being fantastic and our hotel was fantastic too (Palace Bonvecchiati)!
Friday, we walked and walked and walked and took pictures... and walked. We started at the Rialto Bridge to Piazza San Marco, past the Bridge of Sighs (that was covered for renovations, unfortunately), we walked to "Sandwich Row" where we ate a pretty good lunch, went by the church of San Zaccaria, walked along the San Marco basin, we crossed over the Grande Canal, we walked by La Salute (big church you see from the San Marco area), we stopped for cappuccino and cioccolata calda to give our feet a rest, we walked over the Accademia bridge, and of course this whole time I was taking pictures and window shopping!! We decided to make like the locals and begin our own little pub crawl before dinner, starting out at Osteria al Portego - a terrific little place where you can grab wine or other beverage, and a bunch of tapas-type snacks, or you could sit down for an entire meal. The food was great, the drinks were fabulous, and it was just nice to have zero responsibility! After Osteria al Portego, we walked back to explore a few sights at night, checking out San Marco Piazza again, then finally we headed to dinner. The restaurant we ended up had an interesting, strange devilish theme to it, but our meals were good and the vino was even better.





Saturday after breakfast, I put on some galoshes and we headed out to see the high-tide-flooded areas of Venice. We went to the fish market - yum!! So much fabulous looking produce and, well, fish of course! Jamie didn't have cool rainboots like me, so he took some pictures of me wading in the high tide waters. It was fun just to be shin-deep in water in places we had walked the day before!




We headed back to San Marco, the lowest laying area in Venice, most prone to flooding and high tides. We toured San Marco (duomo), we were fascinated by the Golden Alter which is quite a piece of art containing over 2000 precious stones - Pretty amazing!! We also toured the Doge's Palace which was pretty cool before heading back to Piazza San Marco to put our feet up at Quadri (restaurant/cafe) and enjoy frothy, hot, really expensive beverages... the ambiance and the people/pigeon watching was worth the pricey snack! We walked over to grab a vaporetto (like a water metro) and headed to Murano, famous for its glass blowing and production. We took in some great sights on our 40 minute boat ride which included a practice race for a gondola ragatta - every team's gondola was one color and all the gondoliers on that gondola wore the same color shirt.
I think we got suckered into taking a detour once on Murano to one glass blowing demonstration, afterward we left and felt like we were in a ghost town - there was nothing and nobody around! When we finally made it back to civilization, we walked along a canal and many, many Murano glass shops. We took the vaporetto back to Venice, getting off at a different side of the islands so we could walk and see things we had not already seen. We decided to be like tourists and find a gondola. Romantic and fun, touristy and so cliche of Venice, but we had a good time seeing Venice from the canals, it certainly gave a different perspective and gave our feet another rest!
We walked some more and stopped for gelato, I saw a spot the day before that I just had to try the cioccolato nero - dark chocolate - holy yumminess!! It was so, so delicious that I made Jamie take a few pictures of me with my gelato. That was our appetizer, then we did a little shopping before finding another restaurant, Rosso Rosa, for dinner to celebrate our weekend and last night sans kids. Dinner was great as was the wine, and a little too much maybe too... Back to our hotel for the night.





Sunday arrived and we had to make our way back to the airport and fly home. Our last ride on the vaporetto down the Grand Canal, back to the bus, and to Marco Polo airport. It was great to get away but it was also nice to get home!

The week of Thanksgiving was a short work week for Jamie but a busy week all the same. We decided to take the train on Thanksgiving morning up to Rome for an overnight. Lincoln and Riann loved taking the slow train and watching out the windows.


Once we arrived in Rome, we checked into our hotel (IQ Hotel, great place!!!) and headed out with some new umbrellas that we quickly invested in. We grabbed some quick sandwiches while it down poured, then we headed out on an adventure to see the Colosseum,

where we also came across what I originally thought was a parade... It was a protest/demonstration. The protesters rushed into the Colosseum, made their way up to the upper levels and were chanting something in Italian, and lit flares that had red and blue smoke pouring from them.





the Forum, (with a quick stop in a store that I found a beautiful coat in and quickly fell in love), then on to the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain


and on to the Spanish Steps. This visit, Lincoln was awake and headed up to the very top on his own with Jamie next to him, no hand holding necessary - What a way to spend your last day of being 1!! Here is Lincoln with Jamie on their way back down...


Once again we treated the kids (and the adults too) to gelato, a stop in a toy store and then finally headed back towards our hotel stopping for dinner as the rain kept falling.
Friday was Lincoln's 2nd birthday! How many 2 year olds get to spend their birthdays at the Vatican?? Lucky little guy! We started our day hopping on the Metro over to Vatican City.


(My grandfather went to Vatican City back during World War II and met the Pope. It was pretty neat to be somewhere where my Grampa had been so many years ago!) We dodged some more heavy rain while we stepped in to eat some breakfast at a little Bar (for pastries and cappuccino) near the Vatican Museum. The Museum was amazing, so much beautiful detail on the ceilings and the floors, the statues and the walls. And yes, we did go to the Sistine Chapel... Wow!! It is amazing that Michelangelo was able to paint the entire ceiling, the colors, the detail, unbelieveable!! But San Pietro Basilica was amazing too.
We saw a nun praying in the Basilica, the Pieta, and also the Swiss Guard in their colorful uniforms outside of the Vatican and Basilica.
We must be seeing the churches in a good order because I am always impressed and in awe even from the last church, I don't know how you can top San Marco in Venice and San Pietro in Vatican City... (Well, there's always Westminster Abbey... I'm always looking for tickets to London so I'm sure it won't be too long before we are there!!)









We took the Eurostar (fast train) back from Roma to Napoli, took the bus from the train station to the airport where we parked on the base Jamie works at, then drove home. We had enough time to celebrate Lincoln's birthday, letting him open presents, having dinner and then eating cake. I still can't believe my little man is already 2.



Lately, Jamie and I have been spending a lot of time researching our next trip. Riann requested to spend her birthday in Paris but Jamie is really concerned about the weather and it being too cold to enjoy. On our list of possibilities: Paris; Koln, Germany; Barcelona; Sicily; Milan; France; Budapest, Hungary... Where we will actually go, who knows, that's half the fun of living in Europe!!

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Cucinare con Vera

Translation: Cooking with Vera


Tuesday, October 12, Jamie and I had our first cooking class. It was supposed to be a group of about 15 or so, husbands too, somehow Jamie ended up the only male in the class. Vera, our teacher, LOVED him!! She really put him to work though!


Several of the people in the class I already knew, some I had seen before, and there were a few new faces and names to remember. But it was an excellent group of people, we had a blast!! Vera has quite the set up for so many of us to take part in creating the extravagant menu she has planned, each of us volunteering to do different steps of different recipes.


This class's menu:
Antipasto: Bruschetta, stuffed & fried zucchini flowers and Bresaola with rucola
Primo: Risotto with mushrooms and risotto with pumpkin
Secondo: Polpettone (Italian meatloaf) with carrot salad and potatoes with tomatoes and fresh onions
Dolce: Lemon Tiramisu


And every bit of it was DELICIOUS!!

I can't wait to go back for more cooking classes!

Io amo le Cinque Terre!!

Translation: I love the Cinque Terre!!

I'm a little behind in blogging... but we've been busy traveling. Here's what we've been up to lately.

Thursday October 7th, we left Napoli and headed to Camp Darby (Army base) in Livorno in our tiny rented Fiat Panda since our car's AC decided it needed a break. Camp Darby was our inexpensive little "home base" for a few days while we checked out several other places.



Friday morning, I ran my first real race since foot surgery. It was a 12k that started at Camp Darby and had a terrific finish line at the Leaning Tower of Pisa. What a great and interesting race!! For all you runners, you know how the chaos of registration and packet pick up can be?? Well, there were only two people sitting at one tiny table with about 12 shirts and race numbers. I thought to myself "Hmmm, I guess I should come in the top 12 or so..." We went and had breakfast and headed back to the start line where there were many spandex-clad, warming-up-like-crazy, serious looking runners... I ended up getting a bit nervous seeing how many people were at the official start, 336 so I was told. The gun went off and I was going solo along many larger groups of Italian military men, mostly speaking Italian. We ran past vineyards, kept on route by the Caribineri (military police), had significant others driving along side of the packs of runners to get a photo opportunity... all a bit different than running a race in the US. Coming into Pisa we ran along with what seemed to be regular road traffic, pedestrians and the local bus, but then through the old city walls down the last 1/4km along the Field of Miracles to end at the Leaning Tower of Pisa was pretty amazing!! The Italians that already crossed the finish line all line up as spectators and really rally their incoming friends as they finish, such spirit!! I was really proud of myself to come under an hour for the 7.3 mile long race!! I didn't expect to do as well, so Jamie wasn't expecting me at the finish line for a few minutes later so he, Riann and Lincoln were snapping photos, trying to keep busy and missed me finish. That's okay, I have more races to run!!



After my race, we checked out the sights that Pisa has to offer: the Leaning Tower, the Duomo and the Baptistery, then we headed out for our own little walking with the guidance of Rick Steves. Of course we did the typical cliche photos of pushing down and holding up the tower, Riann probably thought we were crazy but she did a great job of holding poses for us too.


We grabbed some food for a picnic lunch we ate near the Duomo and Leaning Tower, then headed for some gelato... the ending to many of our excursions to places as a reward to the kids for being good, and to us for managing another with touring with little ones.

We ended up packing up a picnic dinner that evening, headed to the beaches of Livorno, and found a nice spot in the sand. Riann and Lincoln had a great time playing in the sand (even without sand toys!), Jamie and I enjoyed the time relaxing, looking out at the rather calm sea and just having great family time.

Saturday, we took the scenic drive into Monterosso. What a trip!! We had about 20 kilometers from the autostrada up, down and around hairpin turns all the way into Monterosso. A crazy drive, but SO worth it to get into the first town of the Cinque Terre!! The views along the drive were spectacular!! I think I fell inlove instantly with the little town, though the largest of the five. Once in Monterosso, we boarded the train and took it to the fourth stop down to Manarola. What a perfectly quaint little town, I fell in love all over again!! We walked down to the marina and all along the water... no beach, not much keeping you from going into the water, but absolutely beautiful! We took the "easy" walk/hike, Via dell'Amore, from Manarola to Riomaggiore.


So many picture perfect photo moments, I could hardly help myself!! We even stopped for a photo at one point and a woman asked if we would take a picture of her with her daughter, and she would take one of all four of us. Long story short, she was originally FROM Syracuse, went and graduated from FM about 8 years before my mom, which meant only 2 years before my Uncle Allen. The woman didn't recall my uncle's name, but still, what a small, small world!!
Once we got into Riomaggiore, we walked around the town and had lunch at a small restaurant with an awesome view.
We left Riomaggiore via train and got off at Vernazza. Each town has its own personality, and each one I loved more! We enjoyed some delicious gelato, walked around the town, checked out a few shops, and found the marina. Riann and Jamie walked out on the huge rocks, took some photos, and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. Walking around so much and working up an appetite, we shared two slices of local pizza with fresh buffalo mozzerella and pesto... Mmm, mmm!!


By Riann's request, we took the ferry from Vernazza back to Monterosso. What gorgeous views of the coast from the ferry, perfect for more picture taking!! Lincoln fell asleep on the ferry, he is one heavy little man!! The ferry dropped us off in Old Town Monterosso and we walked (me, carrying the Tank the whole way) back to the new town where we parked earlier in the day.
20 kilometers up, down and around hair pin turns, we got back to the autostrada. Good bye Cinque Terre, we WILL be back, next time for a few days at least!!

Sunday, we loaded up the car and headed to Lucca. Lucca is a town that has its city wall still fully intact. There is little road traffic within the city, but there are plenty of bikes and places to rent bikes, too. First we did some walking, found what is left of the old amphitheater that is now Piazza Anfiteatro (eateries, shops, etc), and some sightseeing including climbing the 200+ stairs to the top of Torre Guinigi where there is a small garden and a few trees (yes, on top of a tower!!) and amazing views of Lucca.


We then rented two bikes, each with a kid seat and biked around the town on the wall which was much wider than one might think. I loved Lucca, the bikes were a saving grace for Riann and Lincoln who were both tired from so much walking and gave them a new perspective of sightseeing, but the town itself seemed so much more kid friendly than many other places we've visited so far. A lot of open fields to run and play, several playgrounds and kids just about everywhere you looked.


We had lunch, did a little more riding around on our rental bikes, then called it a day. But Lincoln was beyond tired and fell asleep while I carried him all the way back to the car... again.

4.5 hours later, we were home, always such a great feeling to be HOME after even a fantastic trip!!